Compound Interest

In my book, butter is always good. But some butter is better than others. And Summerbutter—a compound butter made with pureed tomatoes and a dash of salt—is nearly perfect. Echoing Marcella Hazan’s iconic tomato sauce (while rivaling the simplicity of cacio e pepe), Summerbutter lives to lend a decadent, velvet wrap to hot noodles (or even zoodles)….

Goosecherry Jam

This post, started one year ago today, was supposed to be a victory lap. The cherry-and-gooseberry jam I’d made after last year’s epic harvest had been my favorite jar in years, and I was looking forward to creating—and documenting—a second batch. Alas, in 2018 Mother Nature had other ideas. An extended verycoldsnap in March had delayed…

Roasted Rhubarb Vinaigrette

Last week, I had a few stalks of rhubarb leftover after a crumble-for-two. Before they got lost and rubbery beneath the early-CSA kale, arugula, and spinach in the crisper, I transformed them into a bright and tangy topping for all that early-CSA kale, arugula, and spinach in the crisper. Those sturdy, deep, dark greens demand…

#crumblebrag

Behold, the humble crumble. Not much to look at. Kinda slumpy, really. But this rhubarb-rye dessert’s beauty—warming and comforting and rich and heady with the cool spring’s first harvest—can’t adequately be captured by the camera. For that, you need your nose. And a spoon. Rhubarb-Rye Crumble Sized for two generous portions (with maybe a little…

The Gottahave

Every family has that gotta-have-it dish, the one somebody’s been making for so long that no one remembers who first brought it or where the recipe came from. One year, it’s accidentally left off the Thanksgiving checklist—or some smartypants decides to try a version she saw in Gourmet or the Times or Jamie Oliver or…

Puff-Pastry Tomato Tarts

The Great British Baking Show. Love it. Every season, it seems like Paul and Mary have the bakers make puff pastry at least three or four times. I’m mesmerized anew each time. I’ve tried it myself from scratch exactly once. Made the lean dough (yes, by hand and pastry scraper). Chilled it. Pounded the butter…

Suffers’ Succotash

“Come on, let me cook for you, baby.” Cheeky video aside, The Suffers’ Make Some Room is one of my favorite love songs ever, all about giving and sharing and doing for the folks we care most about. It was even in the running for the First Dance at our wedding last March. But truly,…

Barbeetcue Sauce?

This is a weird one. But if you’re a fan of pickled beets, you’ll love it. And even if you think you’re not a fan of pickled beets, you might love it, too. Sweet and cinnamon-y, it’s a natural when spread on toasts—or even a bagel—over a schmear of creamy cheese. The rice vinegar’s tang…

Tahini Slaw

Sure, sure, you could say this is just a riff on the salad I posted last winter, the one with the shaved Brussels and kale with tahini-lemon-maple dressing. But this one’s way different. For one thing, there’s cabbage in this one—big heads, not those little mini guys. And for another, there’s honey, not maple syrup….

Get Dipped, Get Sauced, Get Dressed

Tender herbs can be tough. Basil and cilantro and parsley, especially—whether from my CSA or from the grocery store—seem to arrive in bunches so generous that it’s rare I can use them up before they turn yellow and limp (or black and slimy). A pesto batch makes a quick dispatch of the basil. And a…