Babycakes

This year’s “summer” CSA season is winding down—just three weeks left—and it’s been a rough one for farmers and gardeners in our neck of the woods. Stifling heat mid-summer, bookended by two of the wettest months on record (indeed, Philadelphia surpassed its annual average rainfall totals in just the first nine months of the year),…

THE APPLE

Way back when I was a baby (and by baby, I mean in my ’20s, in the ’80s, in Chicago), there was no better post-club cure than a trip to the Lincoln Park Walker Brothers.* My go-to was two eggs (over easy), bacon, hash browns, and rye toast. But for the table, we always got what…

Middle-Age Spread

This here Yankee was well into her forties before she tried Pimento Cheese. She is, apparently, making up for lost time. I’ve been CSAing with Lancaster Farm Fresh Co-op for eight years now. This past week was the first time I scored a bag of pimento peppers. Bingo. Pimento Cheese Spread As with pesto, potato…

Easy-Street Corn

A couple weeks ago, an ear of grilled corn rolled into a couple bloops of mayo from my BLT, and I was reminded how much I like elotes, the Mexican street corn. So the next time I made corn (the next day, actually), I got out the mayo and the lime and the paprika and…

Compound Interest

In my book, butter is always good. But some butter is better than others. And Summerbutter—a compound butter made with pureed tomatoes and a dash of salt—is nearly perfect. Echoing Marcella Hazan’s iconic tomato sauce (while rivaling the simplicity of cacio e pepe), Summerbutter lives to lend a decadent, velvet wrap to hot noodles (or even zoodles)….

Roasted Rhubarb Vinaigrette

Last week, I had a few stalks of rhubarb leftover after a crumble-for-two. Before they got lost and rubbery beneath the early-CSA kale, arugula, and spinach in the crisper, I transformed them into a bright and tangy topping for all that early-CSA kale, arugula, and spinach in the crisper. Those sturdy, deep, dark greens demand…

#crumblebrag

Behold, the humble crumble. Not much to look at. Kinda slumpy, really. But this rhubarb-rye dessert’s beauty—warming and comforting and rich and heady with the cool spring’s first harvest—can’t adequately be captured by the camera. For that, you need your nose. And a spoon. Rhubarb-Rye Crumble Sized for two generous portions (with maybe a little…

Party Nuts

I’ve been making some version of these herbed “bar snack” nuts for about fifteen years now, and it’s only in the last few that I’ve noticed a quirk—a quirk not in the recipe, but rather a quirk in me. It seems I pick out all the almonds first. What’s up with that? I love almonds….

The Gottahave

Every family has that gotta-have-it dish, the one somebody’s been making for so long that no one remembers who first brought it or where the recipe came from. One year, it’s accidentally left off the Thanksgiving checklist—or some smartypants decides to try a version she saw in Gourmet or the Times or Jamie Oliver or…

Puff-Pastry Tomato Tarts

The Great British Baking Show. Love it. Every season, it seems like Paul and Mary have the bakers make puff pastry at least three or four times. I’m mesmerized anew each time. I’ve tried it myself from scratch exactly once. Made the lean dough (yes, by hand and pastry scraper). Chilled it. Pounded the butter…