Churn, Baby, Churn: Real Peach Ice Cream

Which came first, the chicken or the egg-rich ice cream? When your tiny, Fibber McGee’s freezer is full of put-up fruits and veggies—and three picked-over chickens—the chicken has to come first. Meaning, it has to come out first. With those bulky birdframes reduced to two jars of very concentrated stock, there was finally room for…

“Junebug” ice cream

The thought of making ice cream has always evoked for me the smells and sounds of my grandparents’ cellar in Marseilles, Illinois. Even when I use my Cuisinart doohickey with the canister you keep in the freezer so it’s ready when you’re ready, my brain conjures up sharp, minerally rock salt and wet burlap sack,…